‘22 Special
Bachelder 2022 wines are outstanding, but there isn’t much to go around.
November 1 sees the release of Thomas Bachelder’s current crop of single-vineyard wines. These always stand out as some Niagara’s top expressions of chardonnay and pinot noir. Unfortunately, winter injury reduced the potential crop for the 2022. The wines are outstanding, but there isn’t much to go around.
Here are my unedited notes for the Bachelder’s 2022 release, listed by score. The wines were tasted sighted, seated across from Thomas Bachelder on October 28. Reviewing 18 wines in two hours was a rush especially with time spent catching up on this year’s vintage, export markets and general pleasantries. I would have loved to spend more hours, even days ruminating on this year’s collection.
That said, my words are attempts to capture the character of these remarkable wines — that word isn’t tossed around lightly. The scores are an estimation of quality. Lean into the text, take lesser note of the ratings. I think the lineup is stronger overall than the 2021 assortment but the scores are similar. Perhaps it’s a resistance to scoring based on potential; my wineglass isn’t a crystal ball. But the heart knows…. 2022 is a wonder to behold.
Pinot Noir shines a touch brighter than Chardonnay in 2022. There are comparisons to be made in the across the board quality of this vintage with the 2012 and 2002 harvests, equally strong red and white vintages. It’s bittersweet knowing that the small production means I will never taste some of these wines again. I hope you will encounter some of these stellar wines at some point.
Pinot Noir
Wismer Parke Wild West End Pinot Noir 2022Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75
Rating: 96
More depth and layers, expressive and flavourful. Savoury character with succulent fruit; polished and silky personality. Outstanding. Drink now-2035. 49 cases.
Lowrey Old Eastern Block Old Vines Pinot Noir 2022St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75
Rating: 95
More depth and complexity than Lowrey usually delivers. Pot pourri broadcast with raspberries and plums. Riper, richer, with layers, but still that delicate Lowrey frame; more grip and tension than Vineland single vineyards. Drink now-2032. 59 cases.
Hanck Pinot Noir 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $65
Rating: 95
This continues to be the most polished and pure fruited Pinot in the portfolio. The core of fruit is juicy and ripe; red and blue fruits broadcast with floral, spice and savoury accents. Less sanguine, but not sweet or glossy either. It’s easy to look to pull this down — too fruity, lacking complexity… but it is dazzling as always. Drink now-2032. 74 cases.
Wismer Parke Pinot Noir 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60
Rating: 95
Shot through with Vineland character: call it what you will —bloody, iron shavings, ferrous, sanguine, savoury,mineral/metallic — it’s real and it’s spectacular. Richness, depth clearly on display. Darker fruit with hard packed acidity to balance. Chewy, complex and complete. Drink now-2037. One to watch. 147 cases.
Lowrey Old Vines Pinot Noir 2022
St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $65
Rating: 94
Classic Lowrey nose: red fruited, with pot pourri (floral, savoury and earthy) notes. Sweet fruit on palate, complexity from tart fruit and citrus accents. Powdery tannins on the lingering, fresh finish. As good as Lowrey gets in my estimation. Drink now-2032. 61 cases.
Roadblock Pinot Noir 2022
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60
Rating: 94
A single vineyard Pinot with an incredible floral and juicy style. Pretty and polished. Nicely layered and long. Satisfying and detailed. Drink now-2032. 68 cases.
BeamCity Pinot Noir 2022
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $39
Rating: 92
Peppery and fruity style, giving strong Niagara vibes. Juicy, fresh and age-worthy, you can sense how well this will develop. Another year in bottle and this will have tremendous wow factor. Finish is powdery and lingers. Great value. Drink now-2032. 122 cases.
Chardonnay
Hill of Wingfield Chardonnay 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75
Rating: 96
Layers, concentration and length. Richness and freshness; I wrote “incredible” several times in my notes but without any context. Such is the potency of this beguiling white. Words fail. It’s a remarkable wine full stop. A step above the personality of Wismer-Wingfield. Drink now-2034. 72 cases.
Wismer-Wingfield Chardonnay 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60
Rating: 95
More serious and complete than Wismer-Foxcroft. Fresh, chiseled character. Expressive and alive. Incredible focus and length. A wine I would love to see with 5, 10 years on it. Drink now-2034. 248 cases.
Ivy & Warren Chardonnay 2022
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $49
Rating: 95
(The sentimental favourite; my pick of this year’s lineup. A Chardonnay personality we don’t see in Niagara often.) Saunders vineyards plays to its strengths in 2022. Rich and round, with serious structure and texture. A mix of citrus, stone and spice. Lingering and energetic. Elemental and exemplary. Love, love, love. Drink now-2032. 144 cases.
Frontier Block Chardonnay 2022
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $60
Rating: 94+
Exciting and immediate expression. Frontier Block has quickly joined the elite sites for chardonnay in Niagara. Fresh fruit (apple, pear, citrus) with creamy texture and structure. Oyster shell note on the finish ties solidifies this serious and complex white — it’s the total package. 143 cases
Bai Xu Chardonnay 2022
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $49
Rating: 94
More serious than Willms, with a vibrant and fresh character. The core is a mix of ripe and juicy fruit, with yellow apple, pear and citrus notes. Oak-derived sesame oil/toffee notes. Satisfying, lingering finish. Drink now-2030. 46 cases.
Red Clay Barn Block Chardonnay 2022
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $45
Rating: 93
Based in Lincoln Lakeshore, Grimsby Hillside vineyard doesn’t have sub-appellation cache, but it is without a doubt one of the most exciting corners of Niagara wine country. Fleshy and ripe style. White grape (?!), white peach with flint and toast notes. Broad and crowd pleasing character. Drink now-2030. 52 cases.
Werner York Chardonnay 2022
St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $39
Rating: 93
Restrained aroma suggests yellow apple and flint, serious but faint. More personality on the palate, which shows a slippery, almost oily texture, with ripe fruit, toffee and buttery notes. Great value and a worthy addition to the lineup. Drink now-2030. 152 cases.
Wismer-Foxcroft Chardonnay 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60
Rating: 93
A sophisticated and serious nose, with oyster shell, citrus, apple and toffee notes. Winning texture and structure, a Chardonnay with purpose and drive. Refreshing. Drink now-2032. 204 cases.
Willms Chardonnay 2022
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $49
Rating: 92
Ripe and juicy; the Niagara-on-the-Lake character is singing. White peach, yellow apple, with toffee, sesame oil notes. Softer, powerful Chardonnay. Full-bodied with finesse. Drink now-2030. 46 cases
Mio Chardonnay 2022
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $45
Rating: 91
Beamsville vineyard. Richer and refined character. Focused fruit and cream. Full and standard character. Appealing and drinkable, just lacks the wow factor of its stablemates. 48 cases. Drink now-2030.
Cuesta Chardonnay 2022
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $45
Rating: 90
Riper style that’s simple and satisfying. Honey mixed with yellow apple. Less evident Bench personality. More barrel fermented richness broadcast. Mass appeal. Drink now-2030. 130 cases. Drink-2028.