Big Head Wines Raw Pinot Noir 2018

Big Head Wines Raw Pinot Noir 2018

Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula

$55

Since its inception in 2013, Big Head Wines has evolved from being a virtual operation to a fully formed bricks and mortar winery located at Hunter Farms in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The range of wines produced by the Lipinski family and team is ambitious — covering red, white, sweet and sparkling styles, from 14 different grape varieties by my count — with no shortage of innovation, including a wholehearted embrace of whole cluster fermentation and appassimento production methods. Some of the most distinctive wines produced fall under Big Head’s Raw label, a series of wines fermented in the winery’s 2,000-litre concrete tanks. The current release Raw Pinot Noir 2018 follows the established practice: hand-harvested whole bunches undergo 10 days of carbonic maceration, with pump overs twice a day for two days, before being destemmed, and a further 11 days of extraction. Free run must was transferred to a concrete tank to finish fermentation and for aging. Bottled unfiltered, this is a bright, fresh and low alcohol (12%) style, with enjoyable cherry, cranberry and savoury notes. It’s drinking nicely now, but likely will start to show its true character — like all well-made Ontario pinots — after two years in bottle. (91/100)